Off grid post 12.22.18 ( construction ideas )

There are a few things to write about since the last time, so here goes:

1)  I have been thinking up a plan for making a move out there.  If I were to execute this
plan, it would involve taking the trailer to El Paso, and working for Uber in order to pay
for the rental spot.  Once I figured I made enough money for the week, I would use the rest
of the week to work on the property.

2)  There is a plan for construction out on the property, but this is constantly in a state
of flux.  The latest plan is to make a solarium facing the south, with the trailer sitting
under a cover directly north of it on the east-west line.  The latest plan would involve a
lot of work, which is why I hesitate.  It could be as large as 32 feet by 20 feet wide.

3) The solarium would be designed to stay warm in the winter, but would have to have covering
for the windows.  There would be a lot of glass on the south side.  In the summer, the sun
may make things very hot in there.  Thus the need for the coverings.  Also, an overhang may
be enough to shade the windows entirely, but having a covering will be a backstop in case I
am wrong about that.

4) Don't know how big the solarium will be.  If I make it the full 32 feet long, that would
mean a helluva lot of glass. In the winter, the south gets sun all day long.  Maybe it would
not need to be the full 32 feet.

5)  Don't know exactly if I want a floor for the solarium.  The purpose of the solarium is
to warm up the interior of the trailer, or to sit in the solarium itself during the daytime
during the winter months.  If I sit inside the solarium all day, then I should have a floor.
An idea just struck me.  I could make the solarium not have a floor, but make it only 16
feet in size.  A door could be placed between the solarium and a spot where I could spend the
day.  A fan can be placed at the door, and would circulate the warmer air into the area with
the floor.

6) Been trying out the sleeping bag the last few days.  On a night above 40 degrees Farenheit,
it wouldn't even be necessary to run the heat.  In fact, it works so well that if it is much
above that, I break out in a sweat.

7) There is also the option of using an electric blanket.  I have one, but I don't use it.

8) With those ideas, and the ideas for that I have already practiced, I think that I have
most of the water and power issues figured out.

9) Security can be an issue if I move the trailer out there.  Not sure if I want to do that
though, because I would have to leave the trailer unattended for days at a time.  That makes
it subject to theft.

10)  Construction details follow, assuming 32x20 foot plan with 16x8 foot solarium:

a)  Fifteen post holes will have to be dug.  The northernmost set of five are to be only
16 inches deep.  The reason is that I want the rainfall to run off from the north to the
south end.  Therefore, the north end will be somewhat higher than the south.

b) The posts will be 12 feet, meaning that they should be 10 feet and 8 inches above ground.
I will attach four inches of spacers on the north row, and two inches on the middle row.
The middle row will be dug 18 inches deep, so it will rise to 10 feet 6 inches above ground.
Therefore, with a 2"x6"x8' connecting board between the posts, it will rise to 11 feet and
2 inches, with 10 feet and 10 inches of clearance on the north side.  That is because some
2"x6"x8' boards will go on top of the board connecting the posts.  A 2" notch will be cut
out of the board, and it will rest vertically on top of the connecting board.  The 4 inches
remaining will knock the 11 foot two inch height down to 10 feet and 10 inches of clearance.
The middle row of posts will be 12 feet away, and will be 4 inches lower than the north end.
That's because of the extra spacer, and the deeper post hole.  Four inches lower height
should be enough to allow rain water to drain off.  Over ten feet and six inches of clearance
and the middle side should be plenty to allow the trailer to fit under the roof.

c) So, the trailer roof will have 10 post holes dedicated to it.  It will share the middle
row of posts with the solarium and floored area.  The posts rows will be arranged along the
east west line, with the mentioned five posts to a row.

d) The last row will only a ten foot post, with a foot and a half deep hole for it.  It will
be a couple feet lower than the middle, so rainwater will run off on top of the roof, and
continue along the roof until it reaches the end on the south side, where it can be
collected.

e) The roof to the solarium, floored area will only be about eight feet in height.  There
may be an overhang from the higher area to the lower area, as well as an overhang toward
the south end.  That means more metal roofing material.

f) With this configuration, there will be twenty feet of floor space.  With overhang, there
could be a total of 32 feet by 22 feet of rainfall catchment area available.  There should
be no shortage of water, once I start collecting rainfall.  For example, 32x22 feet is
704 square feet.  Each inch of rain yields a possible 58.7 cubic feet.  That translates into
close to 439 gallons of water.  Just for each inch, mind you.  For an entire year, there is
going to be more water than I can collect or use.

g) The floor will be like the roof, as far as the construction details.  Only that it does
not have to slope any for rain.

h) There should be adequate ventilation, so doors will be on each side of the 8 foot solarium
/ floored section.  Doors/ gates will be added on the west ends and east ends.  Finally, a wall
can be constructed on the middle row of posts to block out the wind.  The structure should be
protected from sun, wind, and rain.  There would be a door connecting the solarium to the trailer.

Final thoughts.  As discussed, this means a lot of material and a lot of work.

Fifteen post holes.  704 square feet of roofing space.  640 square feet of floor space, but
only 128 square feet of actual floor.  The walls on the north side will have to be high, so
I may not make one.  Instead, a "skirt", which prevents the wind from going underneath the
trailer can block the wind.  Also, perhaps a slight wind block on the topside to keep the
wind from whistling above the top of the roof.

This means a lot of material, a lot of work, and a lot of money.  Also, it will take a long
time, since I don't think I will set records on my speed.

It is a big challenge, and I am concerned that I may not actually get this done.
Anyway, it is a plan.  It is also subject to change according to conditions.