Showing posts with label Off grid post --- Construction. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Off grid post --- Construction. Show all posts
Monday, June 2, 2025
Saturday, May 3, 2025
Sunday, February 16, 2020
off-grid post 2.16.20
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Thursday, January 9, 2020
Quonset idea being reconsidered
Updated,
1.9.20:
5.27.19:
This idea will be shelved as well. It may be useful for utility buildings, but not as a dwelling. The ergonomics would not favor it. Not to mention that it would take a long time to construct something of any size at all.
Although it is shelved, it is not completely abandoned. Not yet, at least.
The most efficient solution is to take the trailer out there. It will need a septic tank installed. I would also need electricity generation capability. But all that planning can wait awhile longer.
5.26.19:
Just realized an error in yesterday's write-up. Besides, upon further review, the digging option has been ruled out. Why? Too big of a risk of something unexpected. For example, there could be solid rock in an inconvenient place. I don't know how far the sand goes down. It may go down hundreds of feet, or just a few. Without any information about what is below the surface, it is too big of a risk to undertake.
Instead of doing that, I can scrape off the top layer of sand, and push it against the quonset. This will shield the quonset from the elements. That much is possible.
The quonset structure will be above ground. That is, if it ever gets built.
One thing that I have determined so far is that it is possible to build a small one. It may take a couple weeks, but it could be done. The sand can be piled on later.
5.25.19:
Here is an amended plan, which would include a new idea:
Concrete covered cattle panel constructed as an arch for the quonset concept.
Moving the dirt, and constructing the structure.
Use bobcat in order to move enough dirt for a 3 ft deep trench. It would be 8 feet wide at
the bottom. At a 45 degree angle, the entire width should be about 16.5 feet. That is because
You'd need about 1.414*3 feet for the hypotenuse of an isoceles right triangle. It is isoceles
because it is as wide as deep, so the lengths of two sides are equal. Therefore, the math
yields about 16.5 feet in width, which would angle down at a 45 degree angle to the 3 foot
level, where I would stop digging.
In order to make it wider at quonset floor level, make it wider at the bottom. Add another
2 feet to each side making it 20.5 feet wide. Length wise? Depends upon how many concrete
"bunkers" I would want to make. If only one, it would be 16.5 feet in the original
config above, plus any length desired. Eight more feet would yield 24.5 feet in order to
allow a steep grade down below.
This layout may have to rendered to paper, by the way...
Getting into details...
A much narrower trench would be dug here on each side. This is to set the cattle panel into
place using concrete. Place each end of the cattle panel into the trench on each side. The
panel will be bent into semicircular shape that would be about 6 feet tall.
Fill in the narrow trench with concrete. This will set into cattle panel into position.
Place forms on each side of the cattle panel. These forms will be about 4 inches deep, and
about 6 inches wide. Pour concrete into the forms, and continue doing so until ground level.
That would require 48 pours of 4 inches apiece in order to cover the 16 feet of cattle panel.
Refill the empty trench with dirt, but not all the way up at one time. Put the forms in to
prevent dirt from getting to the boundaries of the cattle panel. The dirt is used in order
to support the wet concrete until it can set.
Finish out the concrete pours until all of the cattle panel is covered in concrete up to 6
inches thick. Remove the dirt and leave an empty space inside that should be six feet tall.
That height would be sufficient to walk under it.
It will be necessary to remove the last 6 inches or so of dirt at the bottom in order to
have more headroom. After all the pours, the arch will be hardened, and therefore, does
not need the support of that dirt.
Concrete bags could be placed at each end so that it would be enclosed. The dirt would then
be pushed up against the bags forming a berm at each end. If concrete bags aren't desired,
then metal or perhaps wood could be used for the three feet or so of the berm.
Each section would require 48 pours of concrete. After some thought, it may not be necessary
to fill in the dirt as the concrete is poured. Instead, just 4" sections could be poured at
a time. Two by fours eight feet long could be used for forms.
Each pour would take 1.65 60 pound bags. That means for each 8 foot section would require
nearly 80 bags of concrete! Yikes! The calculate allows for 6" width, and 4" deep.
It is 8 feet long, yielding 8*.5*.33 cubic feet, or 1.32 cu ft. An 80 pound bag is
.6 cubic feet. A 60 pound bag is .75 times that or, 1.65. There are 48 pours of 4 inch
each, which yields 16 feet.
But it would not be impossible, as I could haul the concrete a bit at a time. In order
to haul 80 bags of 60 pound concrete, I could divide it up into 5 loads. Each load
would be about a thousand pounds. My van can handle that. Could I handle this much
physical labor? Only at a slow pace.
5.24.19:
It seemed that in the recent past, this matter was settled. Now it isn't. Just goes to show you that final isn't final. At least not in this neck of the woods.
A quonset holds many advantages. Unfortunately, there are disadvantages.
As written earlier, going underground is an attractive option for this project. The advantage of a quonset is that it won''t require much construction in terms of a roof.
But the quonset hut built before didn't hold up. However, if it were to be built underground, then the wind cannot blow the tarp to smithereens.
Another idea is to use concrete bags without mixing the concrete. Just leave the concrete in the bag, and let the rain seep in and harden it. Stack the bags up about 3 feet high, while starting in the ground 3 more feet, and you have six feet of head room.
Pile that dirt from the hole back on top of the concrete. Then all you have is a big mound, but underneath you have a livable area that is out of the elements.
Of course, you still need to cover the roof. The cattle panels will just outline the inner ceiling. Perhaps some insulation can go between roof and ceiling.
A bit more thought yields the thought that animals may find their way into the structure. It would have to be fenced in, and screened. Access could come from a ground-floor type arrangement.
The ground floor will be a fenced in area, with a ladder that would allow access to the lower floor.
Post holes would be dug in at the lower floor, and rise 8 feet about ground level. The roof would be placed on top of this. The dirt berm would rise 3 feet, and backed by the concrete bags. At the top of this, cattle panels would go all around.
This plan is incomplete. More thought is necessary, as the idea is new.
1.9.20:
The latest iteration of this concept is to use the cattle panels as usual but put in a metal sheet to attach to the panel. Then pour some concrete to cover the metal. It would be a thin layer of concrete alright, because of the extreme weight that a thick layer would entail.
No tarp this time.
A composting toilet would be used as opposed to a septic tank. That would save money.
I'm thinking that a roof above the Quonset would help with the sun.
No tarp this time.
A composting toilet would be used as opposed to a septic tank. That would save money.
I'm thinking that a roof above the Quonset would help with the sun.
5.27.19:
This idea will be shelved as well. It may be useful for utility buildings, but not as a dwelling. The ergonomics would not favor it. Not to mention that it would take a long time to construct something of any size at all.
Although it is shelved, it is not completely abandoned. Not yet, at least.
The most efficient solution is to take the trailer out there. It will need a septic tank installed. I would also need electricity generation capability. But all that planning can wait awhile longer.
5.26.19:
Just realized an error in yesterday's write-up. Besides, upon further review, the digging option has been ruled out. Why? Too big of a risk of something unexpected. For example, there could be solid rock in an inconvenient place. I don't know how far the sand goes down. It may go down hundreds of feet, or just a few. Without any information about what is below the surface, it is too big of a risk to undertake.
Instead of doing that, I can scrape off the top layer of sand, and push it against the quonset. This will shield the quonset from the elements. That much is possible.
The quonset structure will be above ground. That is, if it ever gets built.
One thing that I have determined so far is that it is possible to build a small one. It may take a couple weeks, but it could be done. The sand can be piled on later.
5.25.19:
Here is an amended plan, which would include a new idea:
Concrete covered cattle panel constructed as an arch for the quonset concept.
Moving the dirt, and constructing the structure.
Use bobcat in order to move enough dirt for a 3 ft deep trench. It would be 8 feet wide at
the bottom. At a 45 degree angle, the entire width should be about 16.5 feet. That is because
You'd need about 1.414*3 feet for the hypotenuse of an isoceles right triangle. It is isoceles
because it is as wide as deep, so the lengths of two sides are equal. Therefore, the math
yields about 16.5 feet in width, which would angle down at a 45 degree angle to the 3 foot
level, where I would stop digging.
In order to make it wider at quonset floor level, make it wider at the bottom. Add another
2 feet to each side making it 20.5 feet wide. Length wise? Depends upon how many concrete
"bunkers" I would want to make. If only one, it would be 16.5 feet in the original
config above, plus any length desired. Eight more feet would yield 24.5 feet in order to
allow a steep grade down below.
This layout may have to rendered to paper, by the way...
Getting into details...
A much narrower trench would be dug here on each side. This is to set the cattle panel into
place using concrete. Place each end of the cattle panel into the trench on each side. The
panel will be bent into semicircular shape that would be about 6 feet tall.
Fill in the narrow trench with concrete. This will set into cattle panel into position.
Place forms on each side of the cattle panel. These forms will be about 4 inches deep, and
about 6 inches wide. Pour concrete into the forms, and continue doing so until ground level.
That would require 48 pours of 4 inches apiece in order to cover the 16 feet of cattle panel.
Refill the empty trench with dirt, but not all the way up at one time. Put the forms in to
prevent dirt from getting to the boundaries of the cattle panel. The dirt is used in order
to support the wet concrete until it can set.
Finish out the concrete pours until all of the cattle panel is covered in concrete up to 6
inches thick. Remove the dirt and leave an empty space inside that should be six feet tall.
That height would be sufficient to walk under it.
It will be necessary to remove the last 6 inches or so of dirt at the bottom in order to
have more headroom. After all the pours, the arch will be hardened, and therefore, does
not need the support of that dirt.
Concrete bags could be placed at each end so that it would be enclosed. The dirt would then
be pushed up against the bags forming a berm at each end. If concrete bags aren't desired,
then metal or perhaps wood could be used for the three feet or so of the berm.
Each section would require 48 pours of concrete. After some thought, it may not be necessary
to fill in the dirt as the concrete is poured. Instead, just 4" sections could be poured at
a time. Two by fours eight feet long could be used for forms.
Each pour would take 1.65 60 pound bags. That means for each 8 foot section would require
nearly 80 bags of concrete! Yikes! The calculate allows for 6" width, and 4" deep.
It is 8 feet long, yielding 8*.5*.33 cubic feet, or 1.32 cu ft. An 80 pound bag is
.6 cubic feet. A 60 pound bag is .75 times that or, 1.65. There are 48 pours of 4 inch
each, which yields 16 feet.
But it would not be impossible, as I could haul the concrete a bit at a time. In order
to haul 80 bags of 60 pound concrete, I could divide it up into 5 loads. Each load
would be about a thousand pounds. My van can handle that. Could I handle this much
physical labor? Only at a slow pace.
5.24.19:
It seemed that in the recent past, this matter was settled. Now it isn't. Just goes to show you that final isn't final. At least not in this neck of the woods.
A quonset holds many advantages. Unfortunately, there are disadvantages.
As written earlier, going underground is an attractive option for this project. The advantage of a quonset is that it won''t require much construction in terms of a roof.
But the quonset hut built before didn't hold up. However, if it were to be built underground, then the wind cannot blow the tarp to smithereens.
Another idea is to use concrete bags without mixing the concrete. Just leave the concrete in the bag, and let the rain seep in and harden it. Stack the bags up about 3 feet high, while starting in the ground 3 more feet, and you have six feet of head room.
Pile that dirt from the hole back on top of the concrete. Then all you have is a big mound, but underneath you have a livable area that is out of the elements.
Of course, you still need to cover the roof. The cattle panels will just outline the inner ceiling. Perhaps some insulation can go between roof and ceiling.
A bit more thought yields the thought that animals may find their way into the structure. It would have to be fenced in, and screened. Access could come from a ground-floor type arrangement.
The ground floor will be a fenced in area, with a ladder that would allow access to the lower floor.
Post holes would be dug in at the lower floor, and rise 8 feet about ground level. The roof would be placed on top of this. The dirt berm would rise 3 feet, and backed by the concrete bags. At the top of this, cattle panels would go all around.
This plan is incomplete. More thought is necessary, as the idea is new.
Boots and Oil Blog: Building advice from an old pro https://t.co/3iUCSg5hgg— Greg Meadows (@BootsandOilBlog) May 24, 2019
Monday, September 16, 2019
Saturday, September 14, 2019
Framing square tips
Comment:
This is a lot bigger than I imagined. It is a big project, I mean. But I've been working on it for over five years now, so it has to be a bit big. For me, that is.
This is a lot bigger than I imagined. It is a big project, I mean. But I've been working on it for over five years now, so it has to be a bit big. For me, that is.
Wednesday, September 11, 2019
Tuesday, September 10, 2019
Monday, September 2, 2019
Building roof truss systems for shed, barn, or tiny house
Comment:
One of these days I will finalize a plan for building out there. One of these days.
One of these days I will finalize a plan for building out there. One of these days.
Sunday, June 30, 2019
Footings, beams, and floors
How to pour concrete footings
How to attach a beam to a post
How to level a shed floor
Wednesday, June 26, 2019
Screens for windows, doors
I'll want doors and windows on my buildings. To allow free exchange of fresh air without the annoyance of flying insects, some screens will be desirable. Here's how to make them.
It appears easy enough.
It appears easy enough.
Tuesday, June 25, 2019
Wood Stud Wall Framing
Another set of pointers on how to do this stuff.
no windows or doors:
window or door:
no windows or doors:
window or door:
Six part video series: Building a shed
The shed he builds here looks very nice. The instructions are quite detailed, so even a not so hot carpenter could put it together.
I'll refer to it in the future. Best to have it up here and now.
Part 1: The floor:
Part 2: The walls
Part 3 : Building and installing rafters
Part 4: Installing sheet metal roof
Part 5: Installing a metal roll-up door
Part 6: Installing vinyl siding
I'll refer to it in the future. Best to have it up here and now.
Part 1: The floor:
Part 2: The walls
Part 3 : Building and installing rafters
Part 4: Installing sheet metal roof
Part 5: Installing a metal roll-up door
Part 6: Installing vinyl siding
Thursday, June 13, 2019
Saturday, June 8, 2019
Woodworking tips for ....
dummies? No, beginners. Same thing, huh?
Some of these may be useful. Maybe they all will be useful, what the heck. Worth reviewing again sometime in the future, so I'm putting it up.
Some of these may be useful. Maybe they all will be useful, what the heck. Worth reviewing again sometime in the future, so I'm putting it up.
Sunday, May 12, 2019
DOZR
Well, this is a tweet embedded here to remind me to look into this one of these days. It is supposed to be like Uber for heavy equipment, like bulldozers ---- get it?
In other words, rent the big equipment for a reasonable price.
Worth checking out.
In other words, rent the big equipment for a reasonable price.
Worth checking out.
Earthworks nation.#Construction #Earthmoving #HeavyEquipment #ConstructionLifestyle #ConstructingHistory #mgicorp pic.twitter.com/aEy9QnvZeY— MGI Construction (@mgicorp_) May 1, 2019
Tuesday, April 30, 2019
Vertical Geothermal Earth Tube
Updated,
4.30.19:
This is a second look at the geothermal earth tube. This time, an application to a greenhouse was demonstrated. He adds a composting set up to it for additional heating in the winter months. I wanted to see how well the system works in real setup.
Radon is mentioned as a problem. I hadn't thought of that. Also, weak soil may be an issue, as it would be on the land out west. Shows a "u" type system, which offers advantages and disadvantages.
The "u" type system doesn't increase radon, nor humidity, as the pic shows below:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The second video shows the performance. It appears to me to be a disappointment. Only 10 degrees difference in the chamber ( not including the greenhouse! ). This is going to require many more holes and tubing in order to do a large volume. Such a system may help a "coffin" type arrangement, and the results would be modest. This taps down my enthusiasm for such a project.
*********************************************************************************
4.1.19:
by Morgan Brown
Here is a plan for constructing a 12 foot deep vertical geothermal earth tube. Why 12 feet deep? Here is a chart which shows the advantage quite clearly.
These videos are of interest because it appears simple, easy, and cheap. I like simple, easy, and cheap.
Below are the videos:
Part 1:
and
Part 2:
4.30.19:
This is a second look at the geothermal earth tube. This time, an application to a greenhouse was demonstrated. He adds a composting set up to it for additional heating in the winter months. I wanted to see how well the system works in real setup.
Radon is mentioned as a problem. I hadn't thought of that. Also, weak soil may be an issue, as it would be on the land out west. Shows a "u" type system, which offers advantages and disadvantages.
The "u" type system doesn't increase radon, nor humidity, as the pic shows below:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The second video shows the performance. It appears to me to be a disappointment. Only 10 degrees difference in the chamber ( not including the greenhouse! ). This is going to require many more holes and tubing in order to do a large volume. Such a system may help a "coffin" type arrangement, and the results would be modest. This taps down my enthusiasm for such a project.
*********************************************************************************
4.1.19:
by Morgan Brown
Here is a plan for constructing a 12 foot deep vertical geothermal earth tube. Why 12 feet deep? Here is a chart which shows the advantage quite clearly.
These videos are of interest because it appears simple, easy, and cheap. I like simple, easy, and cheap.
 |
| Little variation in temperatures from season to season when at 12 feet. The deeper it is, the variation there is. |
Below are the videos:
Part 1:
and
Part 2:
Saturday, April 6, 2019
Charred Wood Siding
Matt Risinger
How do you say that? That's alright kid, I can't say Chevrolet.
This might be considered in place of metal. I would want metal in order for it to be fireproof. This may not be fireproof, but it is fire resistant.
Just read a little more about this. There are downsides to this. Nevermind!
How do you say that? That's alright kid, I can't say Chevrolet.
This might be considered in place of metal. I would want metal in order for it to be fireproof. This may not be fireproof, but it is fire resistant.
Just read a little more about this. There are downsides to this. Nevermind!
Tuesday, April 2, 2019
How to build a block wall
DYI videos
"Worf" suggested that I pour a slab, and put these kind of blocks down, in order to wall-in the trailer.
One thing you wouldn't have to worry about is the wind knocking it over. The structure would be very strong.
But I like to consider alternatives. It's beginning to look like the alternatives are not going to be optimal. But I already knew that.
"Worf" suggested that I pour a slab, and put these kind of blocks down, in order to wall-in the trailer.
One thing you wouldn't have to worry about is the wind knocking it over. The structure would be very strong.
But I like to consider alternatives. It's beginning to look like the alternatives are not going to be optimal. But I already knew that.
Off-grid post, 3.30.19 --- Bldg ideas continued
Updated,
4.2.19:
With respect to drilling any extra post holes, as outlined below, cost will have to taken into consideration. Have to keep costs down. Simply adding bracing in all directions would be the most cost effective idea.
3.30.19:
The theme for the time being is the notion that I am re-inventing the wheel, which is a big waste of time. This project is slow enough without adding that one in, so let's try to correct that.
Before I started writing this I noted the following posts:
How to avoid pouring so much concrete?
It may be possible to brace the structure at the posts. That is where I should concentrate on for now.
Updated:
I may have to dig as many as 28 holes. That would still be a lot of concrete. The latest idea is to make a "spoiler" like you see on cars. It would ramp the air up and over the high profile travel trailer. The need for this is the high winds in the area. It wouldn't need 28 posts. More accurately, the posts wouldn't be as high. The braces would be at an angle, using the concrete post as support, and connecting near the roof area. Thus, it would form a right triangle. Once all sides are covered, it will look like a small hill of wood, which will cover the travel trailer.
If I ran this by my older brothers, I wonder what they would say?
4.2.19:
With respect to drilling any extra post holes, as outlined below, cost will have to taken into consideration. Have to keep costs down. Simply adding bracing in all directions would be the most cost effective idea.
3.30.19:
The theme for the time being is the notion that I am re-inventing the wheel, which is a big waste of time. This project is slow enough without adding that one in, so let's try to correct that.
Before I started writing this I noted the following posts:
- concrete ideas ( simplifying the slab )
- building ideas ( elaborate ideas )
- pouring a slab
- Adobe bricks ( where the idea originated )
Now I am thinking in terms of simplifying what became a rather time-consuming and big project.
How did it happen? Well, I got the idea to use materials on site, began researching it, and then it grew too big. Now I have to get something basic and doable.
While all that happened, I started reverting back to stuff I covered before on other categories. That is getting ahead of myself. There's nothing out there yet. I cannot grow crops when I am 500 miles away from where I am ostensibly planning to grow them.
First things first. The new things for this post is that
- May not want to pour so much concrete.
- Will want to insulate the place, and it may be possible to do that. Other plans may be too complex. Best option here may be batting for the insulation, with some sheet rock covering it.
How to avoid pouring so much concrete?
It may be possible to brace the structure at the posts. That is where I should concentrate on for now.
Updated:
I may have to dig as many as 28 holes. That would still be a lot of concrete. The latest idea is to make a "spoiler" like you see on cars. It would ramp the air up and over the high profile travel trailer. The need for this is the high winds in the area. It wouldn't need 28 posts. More accurately, the posts wouldn't be as high. The braces would be at an angle, using the concrete post as support, and connecting near the roof area. Thus, it would form a right triangle. Once all sides are covered, it will look like a small hill of wood, which will cover the travel trailer.
If I ran this by my older brothers, I wonder what they would say?
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